Brandenburger
Tor, Checkpoint Charlie, shopping at Kaufhaus des Westens or just
KaDeWe, Knut the polar bear, the street of Unter den Linden, ancient
treasures at museum island, the old capital of Prussia, Reichstag, divided by a giant wall and later reunited, wurst and
sauerkraut, Führerbunker, Holocaust memorial, Fernsehturm, Potsdamer Platz,
Tiergarten, Sachsenhausen, in the footsteps of the nazi regime and the cold
war, Kennedy's statement “Ich bin ein
Berliner”…this is a trip report to the beautiful city of Berlin in Germany.
A short summary
This
trip report will focus on the trip that my wife, Nikki, and I took to Berlin
in Germany from March 29th to April 2nd 2010. In Berlin we checked out
sights such as Pergamonmuseum, Brandenburger Tor, Third Reich walking tour,
museum island, shopping at KaDeWe, the holocaust memorial and we even got to drive an
old Trabant on a Trabi-Safari through the traffic of Berlin. The trip report
is split into section and this first page will focus on the stay in Berlin
and our sightseeing there. On the next pages you will find information about
the hotel we used (Westin Grand Berlin), an
interactive Google map of Berlin
and more photos from our stay in the city.
Please get in touch if you have any questions or comments. You can reach me
on gardkarlsen@hotmail.com . All pictures are
taken by Nikki and Gard with our Canon EOS 450D and Canon IXUS cameras.
Prelude and planning
Over
the years we have been talking about going to Berlin but we have never been
totally convinced that the city was worth a visit. But over the years we’ve also spoken
to lots of people that have recommended highly it so we finally decided to check it
out during Easter of 2010.
As usual we were not planning well ahead so I was quite surprised when we
got tickets with Lufthansa and SAS that were not too expensive. I booked it
online on the Lufthansa homepage and paid 2200 Norwegian kroner (370 US
dollars) per person. I was even more surprised when we started looking for hotels and
found out that it was possible to book a room for “only” 99€ at the Westin
Grand in Berlin – I have almost paid the same amount for a 2 star hotel in
Paris (see the
Paris trip report). As we were a bit late with the booking the
hotel price increased to 111€.
To plan the trip I bought the Eyewitness Guides for Berlin in order to get
some information about history and what to see/do in the city.
The trip begins
On
Monday March 29th we went to the airport outside Stavanger. Check in and
security went fast as it is a fairly small airport (check out
Avinor
homepage) but we did have to wait a bit
for the plane as there were delays. But about an hour after the schedule we
were on our way to Frankfurt on Lufthansa flight LH3161 and after about 2 hours we landed
in Germany. The only problem was of course that due to the delay in
Stavanger, we missed
our connecting flight to Berlin – but luckily there was another flight to
Berlin just 1 hour after the flight that we were originally on so at 5 pm we
were on our way to Berlin.
Note: In Germany the
currency in use is Euros (€) . Right now 100 € equals about 135 USD but as you
all know this varies over time. |
Arriving in Berlin
We
landed at
Tegel airport just after 6 PM and I was surprised how small the
airport seemed to be. When we came out of the plane I was expecting to go
through a maze of hallways (as you have to at e.g. Heathrow and Frankfurt)
but at Tegel we got out of the plane and found the baggage conveyer belt
right there. And from this spot we could see the taxis that were parked
outside.Due to the delays earlier on we were
unsure if our luggage had made it or not– but after a few minutes we saw our
lime green Samsonite suitcases and we were both happy chappies. There were
taxis lined up outside the terminal and the ride into town is only 15-20
minutes and costs approximately 20€. Our taxi driver seemed to fit the
stereotype of a taxi driver – he was driving aggressively, gesticulating to
other driver and driving too fast. In the end Nikki let him know and he
slowed down. I guess he was inspired by the Formula1 season that had just
started ;-)
Note:
there is also bus services from Tegel that
will take you to some of the larger train stations of Berlin and even to
Unter den Linden. |
We came to the hotel at about 7 PM and the checking
at the Westin Grand Berlin was fast. You can check out my
review of the
hotel on this page. The location of the hotel was great – located
right next to Französische Straße U-bahn station (the subway) and only
seconds away from the Unter den Linden – one of the main streets in Berlin.
You can check out the location of the hotel by looking at the
Berlin Google map that I have made - the
hotel is marked with a yellow pin.
Let’s start with the food
As
we came to Berlin pretty late in the afternoon there was no point in doing
any sightseeing - it was dark by the time we reached the hotel. But in advance we had booked a table at what claims to be
the oldest restaurant in Berlin: Zur letzen Instanz. So we basically
just dumped our suitcases at the hotel, freshened up a bit and took the subway to
the nearest subway station of the restaurant. With a bit of theme work we
didn’t have any problems finding it even if we didn’t bring the map - we
should really have been on the
Amazing Race - we would have kicked ass :-).
So
what is German food like? I don’t know about you but the first thing that comes into
my mind when I think about German food is sausages (you know...Bratwurst) and sauerkraut (pickled cabbage). According to our guidebook there were a few
typical dishes that had to be tested and that is why we wanted to go to e.g.
Zur letzen Instanz – it is important to try the local stuff. This restaurant
claims to have been in business since 1621 but as many things in Berlin, it
has been heavily reconstructed after World War 2 (as about 80-90% of the
city centre was damaged).
It
was nice to come into the warmth of the restaurant as it was a bit nippy
outside that evening - the place was full of people and seemed simple yet
very
cosy. Lots of simple, dark chairs and tables filled the various rooms and we
were sent to a table on the first floor. One of their specialties is
(apparently)
eisbein or pork knuckle – so I went for this dish together with a pint of
Berliner lager – it doesn’t get much more German than this, does it? ;-)
The food came pretty fast and I almost got a heart
attack just by the look of the portion of pork knuckle: it was gigantic! I
thought it was just Americans (no offense) that served ridiculous large
portions but after seeing this portion I guess was wrong.
The pork knuckle was served with sauerkraut, a typical
pea-puree, bacon and potatoes and I was not able to finish it of course –
just look at the size of that knuckle on the photos and you will understand
what I mean. But the meat was very tender and good and I’m also a sucker for sauerkraut.
Actually, the Norwegian kitchen and German kitchens seems to have stuff in
common judging from this dish at least. In Norway it is very common to have pork belly served with potatoes
and sauerkraut for Christmas. Anyway, try out the Zur letzen Instanz – our
meal was 35€ for the both of us (two main courses and a large beer). You can
find more info on the restaurant homepage
http://www.zurletzteninstanz.de/
.
Going back to our hotel we got a fabulous view to the Berlin TV tower (Fernsehturm)
lit up by night. Standing 365 meters tall (about 1200 ft) it stands out in
the Berlin skyline.
Note: you are never far from what seems to be the
national dish of Berlin these days: curry wurst. There are lots of little
booths selling this dish consisting of a hot dog served with French fries
and topped with a slightly spicy sauce. |
How to get around Berlin
It
seems like the public transportation is quite excellent in Berlin. The
S-Bahn and U-Bahn covers most of the city but the U-Bahn seems to have more
frequent stops around town. You can buy a ticket and use it on
both systems to get to your destination.
We
did intend to buy a 7 day pass once we arrived but when we tried to buy the
ticket the machine would not accept my credit card so instead we just bought
a single ticket for a short ride. You can also buy a day pass to get around
or single tickets. One single ticket was 2.30€
and as mentioned, there was also a short distance option (for maximum three
stops). Apart from that it is basically like taking the subway in London,
Paris or New York City. Check out the maps at the stations to find your line
and direction and get on the train. We did get checked for tickets by two guys at
one occasion - they were not wearing uniforms so they were hard to spot so
do remember to buy a ticket and to validate it.
You can find more info about Berlin public transportation on
http://www.bvg.de/
Note: remember to validate your ticket after you buy
it. This is done by stamping it in a machine near the ticket machine. It seems to be best to pay with coins when
getting a ticket. Some of the machines also accepts notes but we never got
the credit card to work on the ticket machines. |
We also stopped by the relative new Hauptbahnhof
station – the main train station – and it is quite impressive. Here you will find
trains in a number of levels all concealed in a humongous glass structure.
And to top it off: it also seemed to be clean and safe unlike some of the
main train stations that you find in other large European cities.
A traffic hazard? – Nikki and Gard in a Trabant
Before
we left home we posted a question about what to see and do in Berlin on
various forums and we got lots of feedback – thanks to all of you for that. Once of
the things that were suggested was something called Trabi-safari where you
drive a Trabant around town. The
Trabant was a pretty basic car made in the
years of the East German regime and compared to today’s standards it is a
pretty horrible car.
I
guess many people got aware of it when U2 brought along some Trabants as
décor on stage for their Zootopia tour many years ago and of course the lines
of Trabants driving out of East Germany when the Berlin wall fell. But back
to the safari: nowadays you can pay to drive your very own Trabant around
Berlin and you get live commentaries from the guide in the lead car via the
radio in the car. Talking about cars – have you heard the joke when they
donkey met the Lada. The Lada said “Hi horse” and the donkey said “Hi Lada”
– the Lada then became a bit peeved and responded “Why can’t you be nice to
me and call me a
car when I'm nice to you by calling you a horse?” I know, I won't quit my day job to do stand
up comedy ;-)
When
we went to the pickup location we were a bit disappointed that they had
ignored our request for a Trabant in a giraffe pattern but we tried to rise
above this and said it was OK with a standard station wagon Trabant instead
;-)
As we were going to drive in the traffic of Berlin we were expecting to get
some instructions on how the car worked and we sure did – about 60 seconds
worth of it with focus on how to handle the manual shift of the car (explained
in a great way by Nikki in the video below). But to be honest it was nice
just to get a quick instruction on how to do it – after all it is not rocket
science and we are both experienced drivers ;-)
And then we were of and we followed the guides in a lead Trabant
as they took us around East Berlin. Nikki started the driving and after
stalling it in the parking area, she manager to figure it out and it was not
a problem driving around. After about 30 minutes we stopped and we changed
positions and I got to drive and Nikki kept giggling as I kept waiving my right hand looking for
the stick to change gears in the middle of the seats but of course this was
located on the steering wheel. It was great fun trying out the Trabi-safari
but there is a problem: it is very hard to pay attention to the driving,
commentary in English and German and look at the sights all at the same time.
Of the three I had to focus on the driving (focus on HSE) so I didn’t really
hear anything of what was said and I hardly remember where I had been
driving. It costs 40€ per person so it is fairly expensive when you don’t
really get much out of it in terms of information – but it was a fun
experience and we got a lot of attention wherever we were driving. People
were taking photos of our little Trabant convoy all the time all over Berlin
:-) Find more information on their web page:
http://www.trabi-safari.de/
Note: there are separate bike lanes for bicycles all
over Berlin. If you are walking it is best to try and stay away from these
as bikers seemed pretty angry if obstructed. |
Berlin Wall – Checkpoint Charlie
If
you know your history you will know that there was something called World
War 2 and Germany was in it ;-) After the war Berlin was split into sections
and was under control of British, French, American and Russian forces. Later
on (in 1961) East Germany came up with the brilliant idea of putting up the
Berlin wall which surrounded West Berlin altogether and Checkpoint Charlie became the only crossing point between East and West Berlin until the wall
was torn down in 1990. Today there are not that many traces of the Berlin
Wall; you can find some sections that are intact while in rest of Berlin it
is just indicated with various signals in the pavement.
Here is a site that shows a map of where the Berlin Wall stood.
Checkpoint Charlie is located on Friedrichstraße
which is the same street as our
hotel Westin Grand so we just walked over
there in connection with the Trabant driving. At Checkpoint Charlie today
you can find a replica of the sign and watch booth that was once there but
there is not that much else to remind you of the dramatic history that the
place holds. There were also a couple of guys dressed up in military
uniforms and tourists could pay to get their photo taken with them –
couldn’t they at least hide the “Pay me 1€” sign when the photos were taken?
We
decided to check out the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie and it seemed to be a
museum covering the cold war, the Berlin wall etc. We paid the 12.5€ per
person for the entry and started the tour and to start with (the first couple
of rooms) it was completely packed with people and I assumed that it was
just a tiny museum – but it turned out that the place is quite big and it
was just crowded as people started by trying to read everything. And this is
a part of the problem with the museum – the place is packed with info on the
wall and I think they try to cover too much. But it is quite remarkable to see
how innovative people were in the attempts to escape the communist regime of
DDR and I think it also shows how desperate they were. And it was also sad
to see many examples of people that were killed in the process of fleeing to
west Berlin. But one annoying thing about the museum is that you are not
allowed to take photos at all – I’m not sure I understand the reason for
this. You can find more information on the
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie web page.
Note: The longest section of the wall still
standing is about 1,3 km long and is known as the
East side gallery. See
the location of it in my Berlin Google map
(you might have to zoom out). |
Reminder of the past – the holocaust memorial
(Holocaust Denkmal)
Near
the Brandenburger Tor you will find the huge holocaust memorial dedicated
the jews that were killed during world war 2 by the Nazi regime. From what I
read, there were many and long discussions on where to put this monument and
in the end it ended up with this location –
and
I guess there is some ironic justice in the placement as it basically on top
of both Goebbles and Hitler bunkers from World War 2. The monument covers a
large area and it consists of thousands of concrete slabs (I think there is
about 2700 of them) aligned and you can walk in between them. The paths in
between seems to follow the landscape so all of a sudden you are in a maze
of the stones. We walked over to the east end of the memorial where you can
find a genocide center. The center displays the horror of World War 2
through a quiet exhibition of facts but also powerful family stories and
even quotes from diaries and letters. If you do visit the memorial be sure
to also visit the genocide center! You can read more about the memorial on
http://www.holocaust-mahnmal.de/ .
Dinner time again
After
having the heavy meal at Zur letzen Instanz we started doubting our original
plan which was dinner at another typical German restaurant called
Leibniz-Klause. So we looked in our guidebook again and there was a
recommendation for a place called Altes Zollhaus in the Kreuzberg
part of town.
The
description was “gourmet style German food” and that sounded quite good.
Once again we grabbed the U-Bahn and we stopped at Hallesches Tor and walked to the restaurant from there. Even if the
station is just a few stops south of Checkpoint Charlie we got a feeling
that we were not in the best part of town anymore when emerging from the
station. But we have been around the block (as I
say to Nikki’s constant frustration ;-)
and
it was not a problem walking over to the restaurant. When we came there it
looked picturesque as the restaurant is located in an old house by a canal –
but it also looked very closed. But then we noticed a sign next to the door
saying that we had to ring the doorbell! Like Alice in Wonderland we
followed the instruction and then the door was opened for us and they had a
table for us. It was easy to see that this was a step up from the restaurant
Zur letzen Instanz with the white linen on the tables and the interior in
general. We decided to go for the “Fantastic Four” menu – a 4 course meal
with 4 wines for 44.44€ per person – so in other words it was not only a
step up in quality and looks but also in price ;-)
I
started with a champagne and calvados aperitif but we soon got the starter
which was smoked char with potato salad and the fish was excellent. After
that we had a herb and potato soup followed by Brandenburger farm duckling and
to round it off a Catalonian cream. All in all it was about 100 € for the
both of us and the food and service was great. They even knew how to handle it when
Nikki told them about her lactose intolerance and that is not always the
case. The duckling was great served with apples, cabbage (not sauerkraut
mind you) and potato cakes. The bill came in a small music box and once we
opened it to check the bill it started playing - quite amusing. We took a taxi
back to the hotel and it was 10€ from the restaurant to Westin Grand.
Check out the restaurant homepage on
http://www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de/
Note: there are a few gypsy women walking around the
most visited tourist sites. I’m not sure what the scam is (or maybe it is
just begging) but they would show a handwritten note and try to get in touch
with tourists by asking them if they speak English. |
A visit to ancient times – museum island
This
small island was once the cradle of Berlin as this was where the
first settlements were established. Now it contains the Berliner Dom and a
few museums and hence the name: museuminsel (museum island). We started by
walking there from our hotel and we walked along Unter den Linden and
checked out the buildings on our way. The Berliner Dom church which was
started about 1750 is quite a contrast to the high, sleek and modern TV
tower in the background.
The
Berliner Dom church was partially destroyed during World War 2 but it has been
restored in a "simplified" form. The church looked really impressive on the
outside so we decided to check out the inside as well and paid the 5€ each for
the tickets. The strange thing is that the
church is really not that big inside and it is not as impressive as e.g. St.
Peters in Rome, the duomo in Milan or Notre Dame in Paris – it just doesn’t have the same “wow factor”. But it was impressive to see and hear
the 7200 pipe organ in the church. The entrance ticket also gave us access
to visit parts of the dome and the original crypt of the Hohenzollern family
– the family that rules Berlin for hundreds of years. It was eerie to walk
through the crypt and see all the large and small (lots of babies are kept
here too) sarcophagus. Keep in mind that this is a burial site if you
visit the crypt.
We continued to walk over to the Pergamonmuseum
where we had to wait in line for something like 30 minutes to get in but when we were
done with the visit the line was gone so I guess you should either come
early or late. We paid 10€ per person for the entrance ticket and after a
quick lunch in the museum café, we were ready to deal with the ancient
artifacts.
Note: you get an audio guide included in the ticket
so be sure to pick one up on the way in. |
The
first room you get to when you enter the museum is quite mind-blowing – in
this large room you will find the remains from the Pergamon alter (from
which the museum takes its name). The alter comes from the city of Pergamon
(now Bergama in Turkey) and was build around 170 BC! It is not complete but
it gives you a very good idea of how splendid this must have looked.
We
decided to take a 30 minute audio guide tour of the museum to start with and
this is excellent if you are short on time. Other hightlights in the museum
are the entrance section to a temple also from Pergamon, amazing Roman mosaic,
the entrance gate to a market in the Roman city of Miletus (120 AD) and last
but not least, the beautiful Ishtar gate together with a equally beautiful
processional way. These two last items is just breathtaking as it was taken from
the ancient city of Babylon and built by Nebuchadnezzar and dates it back to
600 BC! Well, some of the bricks in the reconstruction are new but there are
also original bricks.
The Paragmonmuseum is not as extensive as museums
like Louvre (see my
Paris trip
report) and the Vatican museum (see my
Rome trip
report) but some of the rooms at the
Pergamonmuseum are just amazing and the museum is well worth a visit. Check
out more details about the museum on
http://www.smb.museum/
Scandinavian encounter at KaDeWe
After
so much cultural influx we decided to go for some brainless vacation
entertainment: shopping ;-) After we finished at the Pargamonmuseum, we walked
over to Alexanderplatz (called Alex by the locals according to our guidebook)
and took the U-Bahn to Wittenbergplatz where you will find Kaufhaus des
Westens also known as KaDeWe. KaDeWe is one of the largest department stores
in Europe (I guess it is only Harrods in London that can compete)
and we browsed around a bit but we soon ended up on one of the upper levels
where they have lots and lots of food. In this place you should be able to
find almost anything that you are looking for – and they also serve lots of
the food as well. As we were getting hungry we started browsing around but I
can tell you: it was hard to make a decision as there was so much food on
offer. Here you can have lots of cheese, seafood, lots of different oyster
types, king crab from Norway, sausages...well, you name it basically. We ended
up sharing a small lobster and I had a glass of some nice Moet & Chandon
Brut Imperial to go with the lobster and it was excellent. We also had some
tapas – as you can understand it is very easy to get carried away at this place.
When it comes to the Scandinavian encounter – it
sounded like half of Norway, Sweden and Denmark had decided to visit Berlin
and KaDeWe this Easter - I have never heard so many Scandinavians in once place
abroad before. We
walked out of KaDeWe slightly tipsy and with porcini and pancetta in our
bags. Check out the department stores homepage on
http://www.kadewe.de/en/
for more information.
Note: You can also visit Galeries Lafayette in Berlin but in my opinion it
cannot match KaDeWe – at least not when it comes to the gourmet section. |
In the footsteps of the Nazi regime – Berlin
walking tour
You
can’t go to Berlin and not get some contact with World War 2 history. We
decided to follow in the footsteps of the Nazi’s by taking an Original
Berlin Walk called “Infamous Third Reich Sites tour”. To start the tour we
went to the U-Bahn station at the zoo one morning and signed up for the tour that were
starting at 10 am and paid the guy 12€ each. After we paid him we were like
“what if he is just a con-man” but luckily he was the real deal ;-) Our guide
this morning was Jonathan and he started by taking us on the train to
Mohrenstraße U-Bahn station where we began our tour. It turned out that many
of the important Nazi buildings were located in this area including the
Reich Chancellery, the hotel were Adolf Hitler used to stay before he came
into power, the air ministry and the headquarters for both the SS and
Gestapo.
The
first thing we noticed in the Mohrenstraße U-Bahn station was the red marble
cladding and our guide Jonathan said that this was actually taken from the
Reich Chancellery after the war but Wikipedia suggests that it might just be
an urban legend but it is a good story anyway. But Jonathan actually started
by explaining the background for World War 2 and how Adolf Hitler seized
power in Germany - I’m sure none of us minded this history refreshment –
after all it has been a few years since we had this in school. The Nazi air
ministry seems to be quite intact even after the devastating World War 2 but
there is nothing left of the Reich Chancellery and the SS and Gestapo head
quarters. But Jonathan carried old photos to show examples of how it was
back then and he didn’t mind us asking questions all the time either.
One
of the most disturbing features of this walking tour might be the topography
of terror – an open air exhibition that gives you a bit of information about
the area, the Gestapo and SS, about the events leading up to World War 2,
about the death camps and marking of the prisoners etc. A new museum is to
open in these days in connection with the topography of terror and there are
also excavations revealing the basements of the SS and Gestapo.
We ended up our 3 hour walk with Jonathan at the spot where Hitler’s bunker
is located (führerbunker) – there is not much to see really as there is just a parking lot
and the remains of the bunker is just buried below the surface and it is not
accessible. This is where Hitler ended his last days in April of 1945 as the
Russians moved in to take Berlin. This tour is highly recommended if you are
into World War 2 history and even if there is not that much to see, Jonathan
was able to bring it back to life with his descriptions, knowledge and old
photos. He was always willing to share his knowledge with us when we were
asking the most basic questions. Wouldn't have been great with a Google
Street View - historic version? It would have been great to walk through
the city virtually anno 1940. Anyway, you can check out more info about the walks
provided by Original walks on
http://www.berlinwalks.com/.
Lunch at a
Lindenbräu Brauhaus
Even
if the stories of World War 2 does not lead to increased appetite, the walking
and fresh air did. So after the walking tour we walked over to Potsdamer
platz so check out what was on offer there. Potsdamer platz used to be a
center of Berlin but after the construction of the Berlin wall it became
just a part of outskirts of both sections and hence there was no focus on
improving the area. But after the reunification more than 25 billion US
dollars have been invested to build up the area and now it appears quite
modern and new. We decided to have lunch at a brauhaus (brewery) called
Lindenbräu at the Sony center.
The
place brags about having their own brewery where they produce wheat beer and
they have some huge tanks in the center of the restaurant to prove this. We
got a menu in English eventually and Nikki went for a Nürnberger Würst meal (a
sausage) while I went for the brewery plate consisting of sausage, meat,
sauerkraut, potato dumplings etc. Once again I was astonished of the
similarities of German and Norwegian food as the meat, dumplings and
sauerkraut were equal to when I can get at home – but the selection of beer
in Germany is a lot better of course :-) The food was OK but they had way
too much to do at this restaurant so we waited around forever to get the
bill and in then end we had to go and look for the waitress to pay the bill.
Our meal was 29€ for two portions and a beer. You can find more info on the
restaurant homepage.
Not
that it is bad – but once you get feed up with German food you can move to
Italian food as there are lots of Italian restaurants around town. One
evening we decided to check out Bocca di Bacco as it was so close to our
hotel. We came there pretty late (as we got carried away with lunch at
KaDeWe) but there were still lots of people in the restaurant and lots of people came after
us! We had to wait for a couple of minutes to get a table but that gave us
time to enjoy some prosseco :-) I went for the quail for starters and that
was excellent and I went for the pheasant for main dish and that was OK even
if the bird was a bit on the dry side. To round it of we had some semifreddo
together with some limoncello – you can’t go wrong with a combination like
that :-) All in all it cost 140€ including a bottle of wine that was 34€.
You can find more info on the restaurant homepage on
http://www.boccadibacco.de/ .
Last chance for a glimpse of the city
On
our last day we tried to see a bit before we had to leave – so once again we
took a walk along Unter den Linden in the beautiful spring weather but it
was difficult to get a good shot with Brandenburger Tor as the Pariser Platz
was filled with tourists. We then moved over to the
Reichstag to see if we
could get into that wonderful glass dome but the line outside was close to
the longest line that I have ever seen. So we settled for the view of the building
as we moved on to take the S-Bahn to Alexanderplatz to see if we could get
to the top of the Berlin TV tower – the Fernsehturm.
When
we came there the lines for buying a ticket didn’t look to bad and Nikki got
into it while I check out the lines upstairs (to get in the actual elevators
I guess) and they were not too bad either. But as I went over to give Nikki
the “thumbs up signal” (meaning go ahead and buy tickets) we got a message
on the loudspeakers saying that if we bought tickets at that time, it would take at
least two hours until we could get up to the top of the tower - I guess that will teach us to
plan ahead :-) If you want to plan ahead visit the tower's homepage on
http://www.tv-turm.de/
for more information. We pressed on to walk around the Staatsopera Unter den
Linden, St-Hedwigs cathedral and also the Gendarmenmarkt area.
In
the latter area you will find the two churches Französischer Dom (the French
church) and the Deutscher Dom (the German church) which at first glimpse
looks identical to each other. When looking closer you will see that they
are different but the truth is that they are also “replicas”. And this is
one of the “problems” with Berlin I guess – everywhere you see the
architecture looks quite old but the truth is that a lot of them are
relative new buildings like the two churches mentioned above. The Deutscher
Dom was built around 1700 but burned down in World War to and it was only
rebuilt in 1993. But I guess this is also a good thing – they try to restore
buildings to their former glory and looks which looks great in the city
scenery.
Last dinner in the city – Lutter & Wegner
Our
last dinner in the city was at Lutter & Wegner in the Gendarmenmarkt area.
Once again we just walked over from our hotel and on our way we felt a
couple of raindrops so we picked up the pace and went in the first door we
saw with the restaurant name on it. The restaurant was tiny but there was one table
left for us and as we were looking at the menu we noticed that we were
surrounded by thousands of bottles of wine – well, at least empty bottles.
Nikki
started with a strawberry aperitif (not like Norwegian strawberries but
still pretty good according to her) and I went for the sekt, the local term for sparkling wine apperently
because when I ordered it I said "sparkling wine" and the waiteress just
replied "sekt".
Once again we decided to go for a local treat and we shared a starter
consisting of blood sausage served with a bit of mashed potatoes and
sauerkraut. The blood sausage has an acquired taste I guess but one again it
is not that different from the Norwegian black pudding. I had the sauerbrat
for my main dish and it was slices of beef with mashed potatoes and a dark
sauce – once again very similar to Norwegian food. To round it of we had
apple cake before paying the bill that came to 125€ including a bottle of
wine at 35€. During the meal a few guests had appeared from what looked like
the kitchen entrance and we were wondering if there were several rooms to
this restaurant – and there is indeed. It turns out that the restaurant
occupies several rooms in this block. You can find more info on the
restaurant homepage
http://www.l-w-berlin.de/ .
Time to go back home
On
Good Friday, April 2nd it was time for us to go back home. We just grabbed a
taxi outside the hotel and it got us to Tegel airport within 20 minutes (and
once again for about 20€) and check in was fast. We relaxed a bit in the
Lufthansa lounge (which was bigger than expected) before we took a SAS
flight to Copenhagen at about 5 PM. When we came to the gate we were surprised when
we handed over our boarding passes as our seats had been changed to business class –
that was nice of course but it is not that important on a 1 hour flight. In
Copenhagen we had a couple of hours wait before we took the short flight
back home to Stavanger.
Conclusion
I
was not sure what to expect from Berlin but I guess you can say that it was
a lot more than I hoped for. For a history buff this city is quite a gem as
so much of the history of the 20th century was made here and even if most of
the city was bombed to kingdom come during World War 2, it’s former beauty seems to have been
restored in a great way. Mix this with modern buildings, lots of great
restaurants to check out and lots of attractions to visit you have got a
city that is well worth a visit.
Our
main problem was that we were not able to cover all the places that we
wanted to. So the next time I go there I would like more time so I can
visit some of the places that I missed the first time around: the
concentration camp of Sachsenhausen, maybe an underground tour in Berlin
(Berliner Unterwelten), see the view from the TV tower (maybe at sunset), visit the beautiful
glass dome at the Reichstag, visit more of the musems at museum island, visit
Schloss Charlottenburg, wander around the area of Kurfürstendamm, check out
the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis Kirche and much more – in other words: there
is no reason to not visit Berlin again :-) I came home with a "souvenir"
from Berlin: a cold and a runny nose. Even if spring had arrived the wind
was still cold and I guess that cause my cold :-(
Some “useful” tips So what do you need to bring to Berlin? And how do you plan a trip? Here are
some useful tips:
- Wondering about the weather in Berlin? Check out
weatherbase.com to get
some weather stats so you know what to expect. It can get cold there in the
middle of winter
- A good guidebook: yes, you can find a lot of
useful info on the internet. But get a good guidebook with a comprehensive
street map. Which one to buy is up to you :-) We bought the Eyewitness
Travel Guide for Berlin and that was quite good.
- Which forums to ask questions: Try
TripAdvisor,
Fodor’s,
SlowTalk,
Frommer’s and
Travelers to Go!
- Are you bringing a laptop? We did and it was great
to use this to check out attractions and opening times, maps, restaurant
information etc. Just make sure you find a hotel that offers free internet
;-) There are also free Wifi on few restaurants and coffee shops
- Do you wonder how far it is from one place to another in Berlin? Why not
use Google Earth/Google Maps to measure? I find this to be a great tool.
- Here is an interactive
Berlin Google map where I have highlighted some of the
places that we went to
- Wondering about public transportation in Berlin? Check out
http://www.bvg.de/.
Feel free to check out the next section
of this trip report: interactive map of Berlin .
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